Maseratitude

alpa a écrit :On Ghibli it'll take less time to remove the engine.

That's what I thought, especially if done together with the subframe. Drop down and roll out.

Sounds interesting, do you have any further information maybe?

RH side seems doable, but on LH side - even if the ABS and brake master cylinder are removed, which are in the way to easily remove the exhaust manifold - the brake booster seems to be interfering with the head.

I've used grease with moly content, but right, oil is more common. Checked the 24v manual, it says "lubricate the studs, washers and lock-nuts", so that's in line with the 18v manual then. Anyway, unfortunately retorquing didn't help, so I'll pull the engine in a hope that removing the hea...

Yes, I've lubricated studs, nuts, and washers, not with oil but with grease.
The gaskets are interchangeable with the factory provided ones, same process can be used.

On leakdown test I mean putting compressed air into the cylinders and checking how much air escapes. Gaskets were good for sure, I received the 2.8L gaskets first, wanted to replace with 2.0L, but wasn't available from the factory, found reproduction at Candini, that's what I used. I mounted the hea...

After the long silence wanted to give an update, and ask for some more help. The engine was finished in May, and then it took me some more time to install all the accessories on it, and finish the engine bay. The engine was back in the car in June, cleaned all the cooling system, air pipes, and star...

You mean to bevel / blend the edge right above the seats? I guess that would help for the flow, but not for my nerves if doing this after the valve job (wasn't done by me but still) :) This was a simple and fast solution. Just like the piston tops as you said, but I didn't wanted to disassemble the ...

I'm pretty late with this, but after going back and forth wit the solutions, the cc volume mismatch was solved by minor adjustment in the cc itself. This brought everything in the required ±0.5 cm3 diff. And the heads can be reused in the future without having to touch any other part. https://i.post...

1. faisceaux électriques du compresseur de clim -> 65 de l'alternateur du bloc moteur -> 64 https://i.postimg.cc/G2VgY2Qv/20190103-231813.jpg 2. besoin de petites mains https://i.postimg.cc/mDvVknLw/20190103-231739.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/sx5mhJ1R/20190103-231745.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/PrmVpd88/I...

Found the two topics http://www.maseratitude.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1666 and http://www.maseratitude.com/viewtopic.php?f=56&t=5645, lots of very useful and interesting information. Yes, I was planning for the perfect engine. I know that rings are a slight compromise, but I wasn't expecting ...

I wasn't aware of that. Also didn't measure mine. I was expecting tighter tolerances because of the 4 different weight classes of rods and crank. Although the pistons have a smaller rotational mass and more reciprocating I guess that's why they were less conscious about them.

Thanks for the suggestions. I will then also ask around for custom head gasket.

alpa a écrit :No need for shop, a Dremel is far enough.

That I have

Already explained: they run lean for turbo engines, they run stoichio in boost, because extra-enrichment is mainly for the charge cooling. These engines have excellent cooling system so they don't need extra-cooling. Ok, understood now In theory you'll have an imbalance. In practice you'll remove f...

That's exactly what I was afraid of, you already wrote above that these engines run lean (wonder why though). If I change the pistons on only one side, won't that cause imbalance because of the different weights on the two sides? I though the lack of competent people is only a local problem for me, ...

I'm especially not an expert so I accepted their advice after explaining the parameters the engine. But your points do make sense as well. Since there is no turning back now (don't want to buy new pistons), I put together the block. https://i.postimg.cc/28LfgBDk/20181112-121048.jpg https://i.postimg...

I found rings at Wahl Pistons (they were originally with Mable, still using their blanks) in Germany. They kindly even offered to swap my 1.5 set with a 1.2 set. But to be completely sure I've sent them the pistons and the pins. In the pistons they cut contact reduction grooves above the first ring ...

Thanks for the interesting information regarding cooling.

Definitely don't want to re-groove the pistons with those thick rings. Will ask around the ring manufacturers mentioned.

Yes, I've read about it since then. What's special about the heads' cooling? I'm starting to understand why this engine is said to be well designed, contemporary and ahead of the others. But I also have a new issue, maybe someone also had this here. Nearly two years ago I've bought piston rings from...